Teresa Edmisten – Snow or Sky

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Snow or Sky began as an investigation into handwoven acoustical performance fabric for architectural use. This investigation has been translated and expressed as a coat.

The pattern unit of a single waffle cell was combined with a larger super-grid of lines that follow a Fibonacci sequence, adding detail and movement at the bodice while lengthening the graphic through the waist and hips. Three interlacement strategies are independently activated in each of three threading blocks:
Block 1- Separated layers create solid pattern ‘lines’, sewn hems and sleeve inset detail;
Block 2- Pattern where layers exchange faces in the center of the waffle; and
Block 3- Invisible interlacement used to connect layers for use in the sleeves so that shrinkage and hand would match other more interconnected components.

Floats were managed by partially felting the wool-silk blend to improve wearability. The reversible design was made possible by using overlapping seams bound with in-place hand crocheted trim. The coat is photographed as ‘Sky’ and reverses as ‘Snow’.

Structural notes: This coat is hand-woven as double faced waffle weave on 30 shafts at 36 epi and 50 ppi. Three blocks independently control the interlacement between the layers. The fabric was partially felted, then sewn and finished with hand-crocheted binding.

Dimensions: 27 x 48 x 2 inches (69 x 122 x 5 cm)

Materials: Lace-weight Jagger Spun Zephyr Wool-Silk, indigo and white, for warp and weft;
Trim: Crocheted from lace-weight Jagger Spun Zephyr Wool-Silk, indigo and white;
Sewing Thread: Dual Duty All Purpose Thread;
Self fabric covered button form: Dritz

Loom: Louët Megado 32-shaft loom, compu-dobby 2.0

  • Teresa Edmisten